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Michael Kors' new collection has more body, less formality, more sexiness, more New York drive.

At the New York Fashion Week show, the designer celebrates the women who inspired him by designing his collection with Tina Turner, Jane Fonda and Yoko Ono.

 "There's the moment in my life when I decided I wanted to be a designer. I fell in love with women who were very inspiring to me at the time," said Kors. "But I also fell in love with Greenwich Village and this whole idea of urban bohemia." "I'm a New York designer, so I love that people can watch from outside."

In his new collection, Michael Kors promotes a long, slim silhouette, even if its foundation was shorts and low-heeled boots. He took away the weight and conventionality of his long skirts.  The pant suit was imprinted on the ubiquitous look with slightly oversized jackets and elegant flared pants.  Models flaunted tight knitwear.

The color palette was warm and earthy but sophisticated. "Beautiful shades of taupe and mocha, lots of chocolate brown. I think it's a nice alternative to black and warm, and people look so great in it," Kors said.

A year ago, Michael Kors' fall collection looked too dressy and self-consciously glamorous. Now his clothes are more sexy, more New York drive.

At a press conference before the show, Kors unveiled a mood board for the collection, which featured stars from the 1960s and '70s, including Steinem plus Jane Fonda, Aretha Franklin, Yoko Ono and Cicely Tyson.

“The women who intrigued me then and still intrigue me today are the women who break the rules,” he said. “They’re strong, powerful, smart [but] they’re happy to admit that they love fashion.”

On the brand's Instagram account, he playfully railed against the glossy influencer culture that dominates fashion. A version of his mood board with Steinem and Tina Turner was posted with the caption: “These are my influencers.”

By The Cut, The Guardian, Reuters

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