Renaissance on the runway: Zuhair Murad celebrates the female form and opulent craftsmanship

Zuhair Murad unveiled a collection that critics describe as “like opening a box of pastel macarons”—optimistic, luxurious, and deeply rooted in masterful craftsmanship, according to WWD.

Backstage, the Beirut-based designer acknowledged the uncertainty of the world this season. For Murad, this feeling was especially acute, prompting him to counter global gloom with dresses that radiate extravagant beauty. The collection drew inspiration from history, finding solace and hope in the past.

He turned to the Renaissance and post-war periods—eras when art and beauty reasserted themselves after hardship.

“We live in a world full of darkness,” Murad said. “After the Middle Ages came the Renaissance, celebrating art, painting, music, and the beauty of women.” This vision translated into silhouettes that place the female body at the center of the narrative.

Murad revisited the hourglass shape: corsets emphasized narrow waists, while hips were accentuated with structured skirts, draped overlays, and dramatic pannier-inspired volumes. Though some references appeared theatrical, the designer clarified that these were forms, not costumes.

“I wanted to celebrate her body, her beauty—that is what makes a woman special,” he emphasized.

Architectural precision came from duchesse satin and mikado, while chiffon softened the silhouettes. Signature Murad embellishments—embroidery and lavish sparkle—drew inspiration from Renaissance frescoes and gilded architecture, translated onto silk using metallic threads, chains, and pearls.

While Murad’s collection exalted the female form and couture craftsmanship, its luxury felt almost surreal, reminding viewers that the power of couture is symbolic, if not entirely practical.