Maria Grazia Chiuri revives Fendi FW26: From neon furs to lace elegance

Maria Grazia Chiuri made a triumphant return to Fendi at Milan Fashion Week with her Fall-Winter 2026 collection, marking a fresh chapter after years at Dior and a brief hiatus. The designer, who began her career at Fendi as an accessories specialist in 1999, focused this season on reaffirming the house’s reputation for craftsmanship and artisanal mastery.

Departing from the brand’s signature monogram, Chiuri emphasized personalization and wearable uniqueness. Luxurious embroidery and appliqué adorned fur vests and coats with intricate floral motifs, while some pieces featured a cracked-leather effect created from tiny leather flowers on white backgrounds.

Historically renowned for its furs, Fendi unveiled voluminous coats in neon yellow-green and mixed fur textures, offering bold visual statements that celebrate traditional craftsmanship in a modern context.

Chiuri also spotlighted statement accessories: oversized sunglasses and animal-print bags became essential elements of the collection. Fendi avoided over-branding, letting textures, patterns, and shapes take center stage rather than logos.

The collection balances sensual elegance with a restrained color palette. For women, black-and-white lace slip dresses and sheer lace evening gowns with choker collars played with texture and silhouette, creating a subtle yet refined allure. Men’s pieces included blazers with diagonal strap details reminiscent of harnesses, softened with fur collars over dark, patinated fabrics.

Chiuri drew inspiration from Vienna Secession and Art Nouveau, incorporating early 20th-century geometric cuts and flowing silhouettes while keeping a contemporary edge. Key highlights included black-and-yellow biker jackets, zebra- and tiger-print bags, and military-inspired elements, all lending the collection an urban, modern energy.

With FW26, Maria Grazia Chiuri has masterfully bridged Fendi’s storied legacy with a forward-looking vision, reaffirming the house as a beacon of timeless craftsmanship and contemporary elegance.