John Galliano Reimagines Zara, Turning Everyday Clothes Into Fashion Fantasies

John Galliano has had an exceptionally busy year. In March, the designer, often described as one of the most talented fashion designers of his generation, announced a creative collaboration with global fashion giant Zara. Now, the result of that partnership has finally been unveiled: a collection titled Re{form}, reports Harper’s Bazaar.

The name reflects the very concept behind the project. Galliano delved into Zara’s archives and used some of the brand’s key “archetypes” as his starting point — familiar pieces such as the slip dress and classic shirt — before completely reimagining them in his own eccentric style.

The designer applied haute couture techniques to these basic silhouettes, experimenting with materials, construction and proportions.

For example, a khaki skirt is gathered into voluminous folds and knots, transforming it into an almost floral, asymmetrical creation. The upper section of a wool coat appears deliberately slashed across the chest, while the lower half becomes an airy tulle construction finished with a strip of faux fur around the calf.

Another skirt looks from the front like a classic checked wool design, but turn around and a quarter of a lace slip dress unexpectedly emerges from the back.

The first part of the collection embraces a gender-neutral aesthetic and draws on one of Galliano’s favorite historical themes: Les Incroyables and Les Merveilleuses, described in the press release as “the audacious dandies and divas of post-Revolutionary France.”

The reference harks back to Galliano’s 1984 graduate collection at Central Saint Martins, which bore the same name.

At the same time, the influence of Galliano’s years at Christian Dior is particularly apparent throughout Re{form}. The same motifs appeared repeatedly in his collections for the French fashion house between 1996 and 2011.

The collection also contains echoes of the next chapter of Galliano’s career, his time at Maison Margiela. In particular, there is a clear connection to his celebrated 2024 Artisanal collection: an airy, sheer dress adorned with ribbons and tulle roses is layered over a delicate blush-pink bias-cut slip dress.

The entire collection is built around Galliano’s signature deconstruction and his playful approach to familiar forms.

Even the simplest garments are transformed into something entirely new. A pair of archival black trousers, for example, has been reworked into high-waisted pants with an exaggeratedly Napoleonic waistline.

A more elaborate example is an archival slip dress that the designer has transformed into a rose-gold cotton lace dress with a high waist and a foil print. Its voluminous sleeves are decorated with star-shaped vinyl cutouts.

Accessories are also part of the collection. The line includes shoes and bags, among them Galliano’s signature winklepickers — boots distinguished by their dramatically elongated pointed toes.

The Trichic bag looks almost like a stylized garbage bag: a soft leather pouch made from glossy black or metallic leather and suspended from a chain.

The prices of the new Zara collection are particularly striking: pieces start at just $29.90, while the most expensive item is priced at $999.

The collection will be presented in a special installation at a private mansion in Paris during Fashion Week. Visitors will be able to attend by appointment through Zara.com.

The Re{form} collection will launch globally on October 1.