Daniel Roseberry returns to Schiaparelli’s roots with daring collection featuring golden accents and bare breasts

This summer, Daniel Roseberry deleted social media apps from his phone and set off on a road trip along the East Coast of the United States. After returning to Paris, the American designer began training for the New York City Marathon, WWD reports.

That prolonged period of introspection seemed to find its way into his Spring 2027 collection for Schiaparelli. This time, Roseberry chose to return to the basics, presenting a wardrobe of versatile separates designed to be effortlessly mixed and matched, predominantly in a monochromatic palette.

For the show, the underground space at the Carrousel du Louvre was transformed into a cozy speakeasy.

The show opened with the house’s muse, Maggie Maurer, wearing a tuxedo dress backwards. The silhouette was further reimagined with corset detailing that accentuated an hourglass figure.

A bodysuit featured a dramatically plunging neckline, while sculptural ruffles framed the completely bare back of a little black dress.

In contrast to these precise, almost architectural silhouettes, Roseberry offered more relaxed pieces, including oversized shirts with molded satin bibs and a stretch laminated jersey top.

The latter could be styled with a skirt for a more dressed-up look or paired with black trousers, depending on the wearer’s mood.

In the new collection, Roseberry also gave his own interpretation of traditional English broderie anglaise and spiral-knit designs.

Schiaparelli’s client is clearly not one to fade into the background, so the designer included several particularly striking looks. Among them were suits adorned with voluminous ruffles, worn by models without tops, with their breasts covered only by gilded nipple shields.

The final jackets served as a tribute to the house’s founder, Elsa Schiaparelli. Roseberry incorporated archival embroidery, including multicolored botanical motifs from her 1941 collection.

After seven years at Schiaparelli, the designer admitted that he had begun to feel the familiar urge to make a change and rethink his approach. But following his voluntary break from social media, he returned with a renewed sense of clarity and a noticeably more positive outlook.