Hermès SS27: Luxury You Can Breathe In — Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski Unveils an Airy Collection

What should a wardrobe look like in a world where summers are getting hotter? For Hermès artistic director of women’s collections Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, the answer is obvious: it needs to become lighter. For Spring/Summer 2027, the designer made air the star of the collection, transforming even the French house’s iconic leather into an almost weightless material.

The idea was inspired by Vanhee-Cybulski’s observations of the changing climate during her travels through Los Angeles, Asia and Europe. Here, air becomes more than a metaphor — it becomes part of the clothing itself, with silhouettes designed to move freely, let air pass through and shift with the body.

One of the collection’s defining looks was a yellow silk shirt decorated with graphic cognac-leather appliqués. It was joined by a cream dress with an openwork pattern, a white parachute-like parka, and airy dresses and skirts finished with sheer panels.

Hermès leather appeared in a completely new light. Calfskin jackets retained their sharp architectural structure, while perforated surfaces made them look considerably lighter. Thin strips of leather formed lattice-like patterns over silk mesh, transforming a substantial material into an almost weightless graphic motif.

Transparency was another recurring theme. Open-knit dresses, mesh textures, perforated suede and silk created a constant sense of movement and circulating air. Some pieces could be transformed with zippers, allowing the wearer to adjust their length and volume.

Even wide-leg trousers in lightweight denim featured concealed zippers for added ventilation, while the Brise de Charme column skirt could change its silhouette thanks to its clever construction. Hermès’ signature scarves also became part of the garments themselves, woven directly into their architecture.

The color palette evoked the changing light and temperature throughout the day: smoky blue, sunlit yellow, rust, burgundy, chocolate brown and Hermès’ signature orange created the feeling of a warm summer that never becomes stifling.

The accessories followed the same aesthetic. Flat leather boots, delicate sandals, small bucket bags and streamlined clutches looked both functional and effortlessly elegant.

The show itself became an almost ironic extension of the collection’s concept: the venue was so hot that guests, including Sofia Vergara, were forced to fan themselves with their programs.