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If anyone knows how to make the fashion world hold its breath — even if just for five minutes — it’s Marc Jacobs. While the industry quietly whispers about “quiet luxury,” the designer took over the New York Public Library to loudly declare: “Long live artificial extravagance!”

The show, which ended faster than guests could post their first Instagram Stories, proved one thing: minimalism has no place in Jacobs’ world. The AW25 collection is a masterclass in “controlled chaos” and a tribute to his longtime obsession with exaggerated, doll-like proportions. If last season was about Polly Pocket, this time the inspiration is dolls from a beautiful yet slightly eerie toy chest — complete with oversized bows, writes Hypebae.

The opening look set the tone immediately: a voluminous lavender lace blouse tucked into even more oversized cargo pants. Jacobs once again plays with perception: white denim transforms into square boxes, and evening gowns are adorned with giant flat trompe l’oeil bows that look like 2D stickers.

But the real spectacle was in the styling. Models literally teetered on surreal platform “stilts” — so extreme that even the iconic Kiki boots looked practical by comparison. Both footwear and clothing silhouettes aimed for distortion: draped hips, heart-shaped puff sleeves, and tops made from bra collage embellished with pearls.

While the runway immersed everyone in a fashion fairytale, Jacobs quietly unveiled his new It-bag — ‘The Cristina’ — right on the front-row seats. The soft U-shaped bag already serves as a reminder that even when Marc ventures into a parallel universe, he remains the ultimate architect of desire.

Once again, Jacobs proves he’s still dreaming the wild, beautiful dream we all want to live in.

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