As of September 1, the European Union has officially banned the use of TPO (trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide), a chemical commonly found in gel nail polishes. TPO is responsible for giving nails an ultra-glossy finish and speeding up drying under UV or LED lamps, reports the New York Post.
Gel polish, popular since the early 2000s, is known for its long-lasting wear and chip-resistant finish, often keeping nails flawless for weeks. However, studies have raised concerns that TPO may negatively affect reproductive health and fertility, prompting the EU to impose the restriction.
“Europe is banning this ingredient as a precaution,” explains dermatologist Dr. Hannah Kopelman. “While large-scale human studies are lacking, the potential risks justify stricter regulations.”
Experts note that the move is preventive rather than a reaction to definitive evidence, as most research has been conducted on animals. TPO is also used as a photopolymerizer in dentistry, but the EU ban applies only to cosmetic products.
Previously, TPO was allowed in professional nail products at concentrations up to 5%. Under the new rules, the sale, marketing, and use of products containing TPO are now fully prohibited. Beauty salons must dispose of existing stock immediately, with no grace period.
Many importers and nail technicians have expressed frustration, saying the September 1 deadline leaves little time to switch to TPO-free alternatives.
In addition to TPO, gel nails carry other potential risks. Dr. Sally Tulpule warns that UV exposure during polish curing may increase skin cancer risk. Frequent application can weaken the nail plate, and lifting polish can create conditions for bacterial growth, such as Pseudomonas, which can cause the characteristic green discoloration of nails.
While such infections are typically harmless for healthy individuals, those with weakened immune systems may face serious complications, including infections of the skin, bloodstream, urinary tract, or respiratory system.
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