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As luxury consumers lean closer toward casualness and ease, Elie Saab has chosen not to scale back on the fantasy of haute couture, but rather to double down on it.

His latest collection draws inspiration from the mythology of grand masquerade balls—from Truman Capote’s legendary "Black and White Ball" to the sheer glamour of Elizabeth Taylor and the era of Old Hollywood.

As Saab himself noted, the mask served less as a symbol of concealment and mystery, and more as a tool for transformation, allowing women to reveal entirely different facets of their personalities.

Voluminous Silhouettes and Restrained Decor

The runway was dominated by velvet corseted gowns, sumptuous brocades, and cinched-waist silhouettes reminiscent of the classic New Look. Alongside these, the designer introduced fluid tuxedos and sharply tailored trousers for women. The brand's expanding men’s couture line was further enriched by embellished jackets and sweeping capes. Meanwhile, a minidress adorned with a massive, oversized bow injected a touch of playful fun into the collection.

This season, decorative ornamentation felt more restrained than usual. The atelier’s master craftsmanship was expressed not through dense embroidery, but through the strategic use of luxurious fabrics, sculptural pleating, and a brilliant command of color.

The designer experimented heavily with a dégradé effect, letting shades melt seamlessly into one another. Saab masterfully played with his palette: champagne dissolved into pink, ruby bled into onyx, and slate-grey transitioned into sky-blue. These shifting tones gave the evening gowns a striking sense of perpetual motion.

While the collection showed little appetite for a radical stylistic reinvention, Saab’s signature precision of cut remained, as always, utterly impeccable.

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