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The foundation of Max Mara’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection is practical, functional clothing: safari-style jackets, pocketed vests and trench coats. Even if the woman wearing them never unfastens the oversized pockets or uses the storm flap on her coat, WWD writes.

“These are the tokens of a busy woman who has a full life,” designer Ian Griffiths said of the pieces. In his view, they should create a sense of being fully prepared for whatever the day may bring: “They give you the feeling that you are equipped for the whole day.”

Griffiths is one of the longest-serving creative directors in fashion, having worked with Max Mara for nearly 40 years. The designer has explored the theme of utility before. A mood board prepared for the latest show offered a reminder, featuring Max Mara advertising campaigns from the 1990s starring model Carolyn Murphy in a striking safari suit.

Alongside her were women travelers and adventurers, including legendary aviator Amelia Earhart, African explorer Beryl Markham, writer and traveler Freya Stark and documentary filmmaker Osa Johnson. Their 1930s spirit could be felt throughout the collection, from curled hairstyles and glacier-lens sunglasses to flirtatious Bermuda shorts.

The show was another confident and impeccably executed Max Mara presentation, free of fashion gimmicks, excessive theatrics and an obvious obsession with chasing trends. There was just one conspicuous lingerie-inspired detail on the runway: a single visible bra, even though the garment has become one of the most ubiquitous elements of this season’s Milan Fashion Week.

As a result, attention inevitably shifted toward the quality and construction of the clothes. Substantial linens and lustrous gabardine were sometimes so striking that they could easily be mistaken for leather. Meanwhile, form-fitting knit dresses emphasized the figure while remaining restrained: they were neither overly tight nor excessively sheer or provocatively revealing.

An aviation-inspired jumpsuit and black organza cargo trousers also made a strong impression.

For Griffiths, true functionality in clothing is not simply about the number of pockets and fastenings.

Above all, it is about giving women a sense of freedom and confidence, along with a timeless style that fits effortlessly into everyday life.

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