A carelessly applied red lip, a fine black wing of eyeliner, and the philosophy of “I care — just not that much”: that is the essence of the French approach to beauty. And if anyone knows a thing or two about Parisian makeup, it is renowned makeup artist Violette Serra — one of Paris’s most stylish women and the founder of her own beauty brand.
“I want as little makeup as possible on the skin, but I still want to show that I take care of myself: I have shiny hair, hydrated lips and neatly groomed brows,” Serra tells The Telegraph.
According to her, the look is completed by one statement feature — perhaps more dramatic eye makeup or a bold lipstick.
Just look at French actresses such as Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu and Isabelle Huppert on the red carpet. “They always look edgy but sexy, chic but never glamorous,” the makeup artist explains. That, she believes, is the essence of French style: looking like yourself, feeling confident and showing the world that you love your individuality.
Serra has turned this slightly rebellious French approach to beauty into her own cosmetics brand. Here are her key makeup rules for achieving that unmistakably très chic look.
Serra almost never applies foundation all over the face — and that is entirely intentional.
“After 40, your skin should look fresh and natural, but your makeup should still do its job. I want to get rid of dark circles under the eyes — and that’s it,” she says.
Instead of heavy foundation, the makeup artist recommends using a liquid concealer precisely and only where it is actually needed.
The next non-negotiable is blush. “Maybe this is a French thing, but when people see you, they have no hesitation saying, ‘Oh, you look tired.’ It’s rude, of course, but I often answer, ‘No, I just need a little blush.’”
For women in their 40s and beyond, the makeup artist recommends creamy formulas that mimic the natural suppleness of the skin rather than traditional powder blushes.
“As we age, the skin can take on a slightly grayish tone, so you need to bring some freshness back into it,” Serra explains.
She recommends avoiding overly nude and terracotta shades on the cheeks, as they can make the complexion look dull.
The real French secret is to take inspiration from nature. That is why reddish blush shades can be particularly flattering: they create the impression that you have just come in from a walk through the chilly streets of Paris.
“I know British women love pink blush, but French women don’t. And that’s because in France, we don’t want to look ‘cute’ or ‘fragile.’ Pink is associated with something pure, kind and soft, whereas we want to look a little more intimidating.”
After blush, it is time to pay special attention to the eyebrows. Serra calls them “the coat hangers of your face.”
“Your brows should be slightly defined. That doesn’t mean they need to be dark, heavy or drawn on, but a little grooming can make a huge difference.”
The makeup artist recommends brushing the brows well upward, adding a little powder or pencil if necessary, and setting them with gel.
“You’ll see how much it changes the face, while still looking completely natural,” Serra says.
“The French attitude toward makeup is something like: ‘This is who I am. If you don’t like it, that’s no longer my problem — it’s yours,’” Serra says.
That is precisely why red lipstick is so popular in France.
“We love red lipstick because it’s incredibly attractive, but at the same time it creates a kind of distance. You can’t kiss me because you’ll ruin my lipstick — and there’s something playful about that.”
According to the makeup artist, red also brings freshness to the face as we age. Beige and neutral shades, by contrast, can be much trickier to pull off.
There is an unspoken rule in French makeup: it is always better to hold yourself back just a little.
“You want to look like yourself and never look too ‘glamorous,’” Serra explains.
“American women generally use much more makeup, while French women keep things simpler. British women are somewhere in between,” she says with a smile.
Even when using a bold color, it can be applied delicately.
“If I do blue on the eyes, it will be a very thin blue line. We like to combine incredible creativity with restraint.”
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