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Ahead of the Saint Laurent show, Anthony Vaccarello broke with his usual backstage routine of speaking to leading fashion journalists. Instead of interviews, the designer sent them bouquets of deep purple flowers accompanied by handwritten notes explaining why he had decided not to reveal details of the new collection.

“I’ve had this collection in mind for a long time, and I finally felt that this was the right moment to bring it to light. It’s very personal to me and filled with emotion, so this time I would rather not say too much and allow you to experience all of its nuances for yourselves,” the designer wrote.

The Belgian designer is marking a decade at the legendary Parisian house amid persistent rumors that he could soon leave the brand. And the evening show was indeed imbued with nostalgia and a touch of melancholy, as though Vaccarello were preparing to say goodbye to Saint Laurent.

The cinematic, romantic atmosphere was heightened by excerpts from William Shakespeare’s Sonnet 116, woven into the musical soundtrack.

The emotional climax came at the end of the show. As the models took to the runway, Charlotte Gainsbourg stepped onto the stage and performed a song dedicated to Vaccarello and the house of Saint Laurent. The designer embraced her as the audience rose to its feet, greeting them with a long standing ovation.

Gold was the defining color of the collection. Known for building his shows around a single silhouette or an iconic element drawn from Saint Laurent’s rich heritage, Vaccarello this time presented an entire palette of golden looks.

Trench coats, pencil skirts, safari-style jackets, daytime suits and cocktail dresses shimmered in gold in a multitude of interpretations. Vaccarello worked not only with lamé, but also organza, guipure lace, chiffon, brocade, jacquard, metallic cotton and latex.

The models walked beneath three enormous golden chandeliers that appeared to float above the black runway. In the background, the Eiffel Tower shimmered, lending the scene an even greater sense of grandeur. Perfect weather, an almost full moon and the unmistakable atmosphere of Paris transformed the show into a celebration of quintessential French chic.

In Vaccarello’s hands, gold shifted through a spectrum of shades, taking on brownish, reddish and almost foil-like reflections. The fabrics were shaped into dramatic pleats, folds and ruffles, allowing even the monochromatic palette to feel rich, varied and multidimensional.

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