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In recent seasons, the fashion world has been playing a veritable game of musical chairs, with creative directors landing at legendary fashion houses whose aesthetics do not always align with their own creative language.

Chemena Kamali, however, is unlikely to ever find herself on a list of such mismatched appointments. She fits so naturally into Chloé that it feels as though she does not simply design clothes for the house — she practically lives and breathes its aesthetic.

It was this deep fascination with Chloé’s many signatures that formed the foundation of her confident yet effortless Spring/Summer 2027 collection, presented at a show that, much like Saint Laurent’s presentation several days earlier, had the distinct feeling of an unspoken farewell, according to WWD.

Among the collection’s defining codes were lingerie-inspired dressing, outerwear resembling capes, fitted suits with rounded necklines and, above all, broderie anglaise — the openwork embroidery technique that has become one of Kamali’s great passions.

The designer worked the technique into sturdy cotton, weightless chiffon and more structured organza, creating blouses, nightgown-inspired dresses and harness-like tops. The signature cutouts of broderie anglaise even appeared on leather handbags and knee-high boots.

In the opening looks featuring openwork embroidery, Kamali layered in even more feminine textures: guipure lace, oversized flowers, pearls and silk tassels. It was a lavish accumulation of couture techniques — and at the same time, an important part of Chloé’s heritage.

Kamali’s clothes can sometimes feel deliberately abundant in detail, and therefore unmistakably expensive. But that is what genuine obsession looks like: when a designer refuses to stop halfway.

Another of Kamali’s passions is the neckline. This collection embraced every romantic variation imaginable: sweetheart necklines, boat necks, rounded décolletés and bare shoulders.

“When I think about the silhouette, I always think about the neckline first, and then I build everything else from the top down,” the designer explained.

For her outerwear, Kamali turned to images of fishermen. Hence the abundance of yellow waterproof jackets and soft hats with extremely wide, elongated brims.

But the inspiration did not come from the sea alone. Sheer capes in smoky shades were inspired by Chloé sunglasses. They looked dramatic while remaining surprisingly practical.

The designer confidently restored Chloé’s sunny insouciance, effortless femininity and youthful lightness. At the same time, Kamali continues to weave in subtle references to the two Karl Lagerfeld eras that played a major role in defining the house’s visual identity.

The mood board for the current season included one of the first suits Lagerfeld created for Chloé in 1972 — a white design finished with scalloped edges.

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