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A secret war among the elite: white soles, cross-shaped stitches — who sets the taste of billionaires and who quietly fights status battles in boardrooms and on yachts?

This July marks 20 years since the world first spotted the iconic Loro Piana Open Walk shoes. At a regatta near Moscow in 2006, a Financial Times journalist noticed a man dressed head-to-toe in sand tones wearing a pair that would soon define quiet luxury and become a standard among the billionaire class.

Today, the Open Walk needs little introduction: a white rubber sole, suede upper, and hidden elastic under the tongue. Priced from $1,070, the shoes adorn the feet of David Beckham, Ryan Reynolds, and Jeff Bezos (with the Summer Walk version for island getaways). The design has inspired countless luxury brands to craft their own high-end iterations.

“Walking down Milan’s Via Montenapoleone recently, all I saw were white soles. Everywhere. And I thought: ‘We did that,’” recalls Luisa Loro Piana.

Her late husband, Sergio Loro Piana, spent two years perfecting the shoe for wealthy clients who didn’t want to leave marks on their yacht decks. “He spent months finding the perfect white for the sole,” Luisa remembers. Initially, the shoes flopped — retailers said, “Nobody wants them.” Sergio then gave pairs to friends, showing they could even be worn with suits. Today, Open Walks are essential footwear for the top 0.01% of the ultra-rich.

But the rich don’t rest on tradition: Zegna offered an alternative. The Triple Stitch sneaker — a casual shoe with business-class ambitions (from $945) — has become a favorite of Hugh Jackman, Nicolas Cage, Tim Cook, and C-suite executives. Its three cross-shaped elastic stitches on the instep signal financial and professional status.

New variations include:

• Secondskin in ultra-soft leather ($1,586)

• Monte on an all-terrain Vibram sole ($1,478)

• Cashmere edition ($1,591)

The model has been a genuine business boom for Zegna. “We have to limit sales because demand is so high… we’re even building a new factory in Parma,” the company said.

Meanwhile, Loro Piana’s Open Walks remain hard to find, even on the official website. “In luxury, scarcity is king,” notes analyst Simeon Siegel.

Ultimately, the elite choose shoes not just for style, but for status. Open Walks and Triple Stitch have become markers of power and wealth, proving that the right white soles — or three crosses on your feet — signal who belongs in the billionaire club and runs the world in comfort.

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