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High-profile trials have captured public attention for over 130 years, and throughout history, the public has scrutinized defendants' outfits with equal fervor. Another confirmation of this is Luigi Mangione, whose courtroom appearances sparked a fierce reaction not only in legal circles but also in the fashion world, writes WWD.

Ahead of jury selection for his upcoming manslaughter trial next month, Luigi Mangione attended a preliminary hearing in Manhattan Criminal Court on Tuesday morning. Mangione, accused of murdering UnitedHealthcare CEO Brian Thompson in 2024 outside a New York hotel, has pleaded not guilty.

The 28-year-old defendant appeared at the hearing in a gray suit and a slightly unbuttoned white shirt. This is expected to be his final public appearance before jury selection begins on September 8. Last week, a federal judge granted a request from Mangione’s legal team allowing him to wear civilian clothing—a suit, shirt, socks, and laceless shoes. As with other high-profile court cases, Mangione’s attire drew intense scrutiny.

A History of Courtroom Style and Public Fascination

Anna Delvey, dubbed the "fake heiress" following her 2017 arrest for fraud, understands better than most how dazzling that kind of attention can be. The style of the Russian-born German citizen drew criticism online and in the media during her 2019 trial, which ended with her conviction on eight counts.

Describing public interest in Mangione's clothing as "somewhat funny, given that his crime was severe," Delvey noted:

"Discussing his fashion is a way to be part of the general conversation without getting into the details or making judgments. A lot of people simply don't want to read court transcripts."

According to Delvey, the attention on Mangione’s clothing "is refreshing, because he is a man, and intense scrutiny usually targets women." Noting that Mangione has spoken very little during his court appearances, Delvey suggested that the only way for anyone to "project his feelings and attitude is through his wardrobe choices."

Yet as far back as 1893, onlookers at the trial of Lizzie Borden—accused of murdering her father and stepmother with an axe—parsed the smallest details of her clothing, facial expression, and even how she used her fan. A Boston Daily Globe reporter wrote at the time that Borden's courtroom dress fit "perfectly, as if measured in Paris, but it was very old-fashioned." Borden, a refined 32-year-old middle-class woman, was acquitted by an all-male jury.

From A$AP Rocky to E-Commerce Merch

Carefully curating courtroom attire is an entrenched strategy for celebrities and ordinary citizens alike. For his felony assault trial in Los Angeles last year, rapper A$AP Rocky enlisted stylist Matthew Henson to pull together 20 custom looks, including Saint Laurent suits, for his days in court.

The rapper, who was acquitted, told Elle last autumn:

"I didn't want to look overly formal or tasteless. If someone asks you to appear in court, regardless of the reason, it's best to show a little dignity, and that's all I did. I just got dressed."

"Very surprised" by how thoroughly Mangione’s courtroom looks are studied, said Instagram influencer Preppy Pete:

"The wardrobe is very traditional, but it’s being sensationalized. Sockless loafers are a traditional Ivy League staple, right? I just think it’s blown way out of proportion."

Mangione’s style choices have also impacted sales. After TikTok users speculated that a maroon crewneck sweater he wore to a Manhattan court hearing in December 2024 was by Maison Margiela, a similar $1,000 model sold out on ssense.com. Later, other users linked the look to a $62 wool version from Nordstrom, which also sold out.

"There is nothing flashy about what he’s doing. It is rooted in traditional menswear. He is very conscious about how he presents himself in the courtroom. He is very intentionally understated," Preppy Pete believes.

The Romanticization of Rebellion

Suggesting that Mangione might not even choose his own clothes, Delvey noted that his items often look poorly fitted. Reflecting on her own trial, she said that in hindsight, she wouldn't have chosen some of the outfits she wore back then if she'd had a choice, explaining that her stylist didn't have her measurements and wearing certain colors was banned.

Noting how the media can turn trials into fashion runways depending on a defendant’s social status, Hedi Nashiri, a professor of global security and criminology at Kent State University, says the concept is far from new. Given Mangione’s Ivy League background, the media and public feel an intuitive attraction and romanticize his appearances and outfits.

"There is a history in American culture of romanticizing those who defy authority," she said.

Mangione's case has attracted supporters known as "The Mangionistas" and "Status 4 Lulu." Some express solidarity by wearing silk-screened T-shirts featuring Mangione's face and the phrase "Free Luigi." Bill Wyatt, owner of Y-Que Trading Post in Los Angeles, highlighted a $25 T-shirt reading "But Daddy, I Love Him"—featuring Mangione behind bars surrounded by heart-shaped barbed wire—as a store bestseller.

As a pioneer in selling trial-themed merch, Wyatt skyrocketed in popularity after creating the "Free Winona" T-shirt featuring Winona Ryder's face from her June 2002 W magazine cover. A year earlier, the actress had been arrested for shoplifting $5,500 worth of merchandise from Saks Fifth Avenue in Beverly Hills. Following her widely covered 2002 Los Angeles trial, Ryder was convicted of grand theft and vandalism.

"Some celebrities get support regardless of the misdeeds they commit," Wyatt said.

Suggesting part of the interest in Mangione stems from his perception as a fighter against corporate corruption, he added that the upcoming trial "gave us a chance to continue the conversation about what he's accused of and the societal implications of celebrity behavior (whether by profession or by default)."

Ginny Whitehouse, a professor of multimedia journalism at Eastern Kentucky University, noted how the fresh flower Oscar Wilde wore in the lapel of his tailored jackets made the news during his 1895 gross indecency trial.

"A physically attractive, well-dressed person accused of a crime makes for fascinating press and a striking image. Luigi Mangione’s jacket is just the latest example," she said. "What has changed is that AI can place his image more or less realistically onto a T-shirt or into a Batman costume."

Last year, Shein faced fierce backlash after the fast-fashion site listed clothing featuring a Mangione lookalike modeling a button-down shirt. The platform removed the image and stated it was investigating.

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