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Fashion subculture, a nod to 80s excess, or a symbol of tradition? British Prime Minister Andy Burnham’s wardrobe has once again become a topic of fashion debate after he appeared in public wearing a suit with braces, The Guardian writes.

The prime minister's secret wardrobe weapon

The evolution of Andy Burnham’s style has reached a new milestone: this week, the head of government took part in a photocall in Ilkeston (Derbyshire), appearing in trousers worn with braces.

Dark, slimline, button-on rather than clipped, they were practically invisible while the prime minister posed for the camera. The braces were only revealed when Burnham unbuttoned his jacket to embrace locals.

The made-to-measure "Eaton" suit, priced at £595, was crafted by the traditional London tailor Oliver Brown from 100% merino wool woven by Alfred Brown in Yorkshire. The tailor's shop clarified that while the suit is indeed theirs, the braces are not.

Since the trousers lack belt loops, wearing them without support would have been impossible. However, as fashion historian Chloe Chapin notes, "the trousers do have side fasteners, so he didn't really need braces at all, at least functionally."

Politics as style

A political insider who has worked on Burnham’s campaigns for the past two years notes: "Andy is not the teleprompter type of politician. This stuff is simply what he wears."

Nevertheless, the former Mayor of Greater Manchester and his team carefully think through each outfit depending on the context. "His clothes are trying to strike a balance between a professional and capable politician—whilst also letting people know that he's different to other politicians," the source says. As the first "TikTok prime minister," Burnham understands the importance of optics perfectly.

From rebels' underwear to a premier's status

• Origins: Braces originated in France in the 1700s as strips of fabric buttoned to the waistband of trousers. For a long time, they were considered undergarments, and showing them was viewed as inappropriate.

• Rebellion and subcultures: In the UK, braces experienced a revival in the 1960s and 70s, when mods and skinheads wore them as an element of anti-establishment rebellion.

• The era of excess: Their peak popularity came in the 1980s, when braces became equally loved by Wall Street financiers and punks. Displaying "underwear as outerwear" was a powerful manifesto.

Playing with context

Could braces signal a shift toward greater formality? In British politics, they have long been a symbol of tradition (Winston Churchill and Michael Portillo were fans).

According to Chloe Chapin, context matters more here. Just as Labour politicians wear red to convey strength or blue when talking to Conservative voters, an ambitious politician can exploit the ambiguity of braces: they look both elite and working-class at the same time. This is precisely the kind of ambiguity chosen by leaders striving to connect with the public.

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