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Wine Story. Simon J. Woolf: Armenia's unique varieties and styles are a chance for its wineries

20:29, August 11

Simon J. Woolf is a British wine critic, writer, and founder of the website "The Morning Claret." He began his career as a musician and IT consultant, but since 2011, he has dedicated himself fully to winemaking and journalism. He is known for his work on natural, organic, biodynamic wines, and orange wines. Woolf has published three books, including "Amber Revolution" and "Foot Trodden," which have received high praise and recognition in the wine community. His articles can be found in publications like Decanter, World of Fine Wine, and Meininger’s Wine Business International. In a conversation with STYLE.NEWS.am, he talked about his journey into winemaking, the importance of natural wines, and the unique characteristics of Armenian wines.

How did your journey from musician and IT consultant lead you to the world of winemaking? What was the turning point that made you decide to dedicate your time to it?

Oh, it was an interesting and unexpected path! It all started with my fascination with wine, which gradually turned into a real passion. One of the key moments was realizing that I was writing about wine more than I was making music or doing IT. The decision to move into winemaking came naturally—I just followed my interest and enjoyment.

"Amber Revolution" has become an important book on orange wine. What inspired you to write it, and what was the most surprising reaction from the wine community to its publication?

This book was born from my personal discovery of orange wines in 2011. I really wanted to learn more about this ancient winemaking method, but there was very little information available. So, I decided to write the book I myself was missing. The most surprising reaction? Probably the excitement and gratitude from other wine lovers who, like me, were seeking answers and inspiration.

You often say that natural wine should not be perceived as a style. Could you explain in more detail why you think so and what misconceptions about natural wine you would like to dispel?

Natural wine has become very popular, especially among young wine enthusiasts, and is now often associated with a specific style—cloudy with unusual or even unpleasant aromas. But initially, the idea of natural wine was philosophical: you could make a more authentic wine by interfering less in the winemaking process. It was never supposed to be about specific taste or aromatic characteristics.

You have tried many Armenian wines. How do you see their place on the global wine scene? What unique features do they bring?

Armenia is rich in indigenous grape varieties and has a history of winemaking in clay vessels buried in the ground. Maybe the karas aren't as well-known as the Georgian qvevri, but it's an equally fascinating and culturally significant technique.

What are the biggest challenges facing Armenian winemakers today? And what opportunities do you see for Armenian wine on the global level?

Nowadays, good and even great wines are made in every corner of the planet. On the one hand, it's hard to sell wine from a little-known country with unknown grape varieties. But on the other hand, there is a new generation of wine lovers who crave adventure and new experiences. They want to try something they won't find in the supermarket. So Armenia's unique varieties and styles are their chance. The last thing we need is more Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon!

Of all the Armenian wines you have tried, do you have a favorite? Maybe there is a winemaker whose work particularly inspires you?

I have more experience tasting wines from Zorah than any other Armenian producer, and I've always liked their elegant Areni Noir. Two other producers who have shown great consistency over the years are Voskevaz and Noa.

How do Armenian wines compare to wines from other lesser-known winemaking regions like Georgia or Slovenia?

I think the very high altitude of many Armenian vineyards gives the wine a special character. And as mentioned earlier, the grape varieties are not only unique to the country but are also not grown anywhere else.

What steps do you think can be taken to better educate consumers and sommeliers about the quality and diversity of Armenian wines?

Two things are really important:

  1. Availability of a sufficient quantity of wines in foreign markets.
  2. A well-developed wine tourism infrastructure and opportunities for winemaking professionals to visit and discover the country in person.

You often mention that the story behind the wine interests you more than the technical details. Can you share a story from an Armenian winery that left a lasting impression on you?

Unfortunately, I can't yet. I haven't been to Armenia and haven't had the chance to collect such stories, but it's high on my list of plans!

 


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