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Back in 2005, a new “It bag” stormed the celebrity scene, becoming a must-have among stars and early influencers alike. The legendary Fendi Spy Bag, created by Silvia Venturini Fendi — the brand’s accessory and menswear art director — was carried by Nicole Richie, Lindsay Lohan, Hilary Duff, Gwen Stefani, and Sarah Jessica Parker, WWD reports.

Its soft shape, reminiscent of a croissant with a rounded handle and “secret” pockets under the flap for lipstick, cash, or phone, instantly made it the mid-2000s accessory everyone wanted. Now, twenty years later, Fendi brings the Spy Bag back to the runway as part of its Fall 2025 collection celebrating the brand’s 100th anniversary.

At the anniversary show, the Spy Bag appeared in numerous variations — crafted from leather, satin, sheepskin, mink, karakul, and even eel skin. A new generation of stars, from Aubrey Plaza to Rita Ora and Bella Hadid, has already been spotted carrying both vintage versions and fresh takes on the classic.

To spark excitement, Fendi launched a dedicated digital campaign titled Fendi Spy Bag Returns, shot by photographer-director Stevie Dance in New York. The campaign nods to the bag’s status as the ultimate “It bag” for “It girls,” playing with spy camera and covert surveillance aesthetics. Models Amelia Gray, Xiao Wen Ju, and Gabriett are captured under the “watchful eye” of security cameras on city streets, showcasing various versions of the bag — in sky blue leather, pink, and sheepskin.

The Spy Bag’s comeback marks another chapter in the Y2K accessory revival. Other iconic ’00s favorites making a return include the Dior Saddle, Louis Vuitton Murakami, Prada Re-Edition, Chloé Paddington, and Balenciaga City. But arguably no bag has reached the cultural status of the Fendi Baguette, immortalized by Sex and the City.

This year, Fendi is leaning into nostalgia and a new generation of it-girls, proving that in fashion everything is cyclical — and a true “It bag” can transcend decades.

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