• Loro Piana Bets on Functionality: Luxury That Knows How to Work

  Functionality has become one of Milan’s new fashion themes, and Loro Piana was not about to stay on the sidelines. The brand titled its spring collection “Solutions For,” highlighting the strengths of pieces designed not simply to look beautiful, but to serve specific purposes: a camel blazer for its natural authority, a field jacket for its functional pockets, a duffle coat for its quick-fastening toggle closures, and a pleated skirt for the freedom of movement it provides...

• Giant Bags and Weightless Silhouettes: Bottega Veneta Stages a Fashion Revolution in Milan

  Bottega Veneta unveiled its Spring/Summer 2027 collection at Milan Fashion Week, embracing relaxed silhouettes and generous proportions that seemed to glide over the body without restricting movement...

• Lace, Crosses and Leopard Print: Dolce & Gabbana Searches for a Way Out of Its Debt Crisis

  The reminder of Dolce & Gabbana’s virtually inseparable relationship with celebrities was hardly accidental. As the luxury market faces a difficult period, the Italian brand is struggling with debts approaching $530 million, according to The Guardian...

• Demna Turns the Page at Gucci: A Lavish “Store Show” in Milan Unveils a New Aesthetic

  Demna presented Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection in Milan, transforming the runway into a spectacular Store Show — a large-scale fashion presentation staged inside a specially constructed, gigantic Gucci boutique. The designer himself described the collection as an embodiment of his “complete personal vision for the brand.”..

• Max Mara Unveils a Collection for Women Who Have Too Much to Do

  The foundation of Max Mara’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection is practical, functional clothing: safari-style jackets, pocketed vests and trench coats. Even if the woman wearing them never unfastens the oversized pockets or uses the storm flap on her coat, WWD writes...

• “I Like My Body When It Is with Your Body”: FENDI Turns Fashion Week Into a Game of Mirrors and Seduction

  An invitation to a fashion show usually offers a hint of what guests can expect. But this time, FENDI limited itself to a single mysterious phrase: “I like my body when it is with your body.”..

• Kisses, Moans and Simulated Sex: Diesel Show in Milan Shocked the Audience

  At fashion weeks around the world, traditional runway shows increasingly seem to be giving way to unexpected performances. But what happened at Milan Fashion Week appears to have surprised even the most seasoned fashion crowd, according to the New York Post...

• From “Ugly” Prints to Mini Pockets: Prada Turns the Skirt Into Fashion’s Ultimate Object of Desire

  Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons decided to look at women’s fashion literally from the bottom up. The star of Prada’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection was the skirt — a garment the fashion house considers one of the most expressive and versatile elements of a woman’s wardrobe...

Ahead of the Saint Laurent show, Anthony Vaccarello broke with his usual backstage routine of speaking to leading fashion journalists. Instead of interviews, the designer sent them bouquets of deep purple flowers accompanied by handwritten notes explaining why he had decided not to reveal details of the new collection.

“I’ve had this collection in mind for a long time, and I finally felt that this was the right moment to bring it to light. It’s very personal to me and filled with emotion, so this time I would rather not say too much and allow you to experience all of its nuances for yourselves,” the designer wrote.

The Belgian designer is marking a decade at the legendary Parisian house amid persistent rumors that he could soon leave the brand. And the evening show was indeed imbued with nostalgia and a touch of melancholy, as though Vaccarello were preparing to say goodbye to Saint Laurent.

The cinematic, romantic atmosphere was heightened by excerpts from William Shakespeare’s Sonnet 116, woven into the musical soundtrack.

The emotional climax came at the end of the show. As the models took to the runway, Charlotte Gainsbourg stepped onto the stage and performed a song dedicated to Vaccarello and the house of Saint Laurent. The designer embraced her as the audience rose to its feet, greeting them with a long standing ovation.

Gold was the defining color of the collection. Known for building his shows around a single silhouette or an iconic element drawn from Saint Laurent’s rich heritage, Vaccarello this time presented an entire palette of golden looks.

Trench coats, pencil skirts, safari-style jackets, daytime suits and cocktail dresses shimmered in gold in a multitude of interpretations. Vaccarello worked not only with lamé, but also organza, guipure lace, chiffon, brocade, jacquard, metallic cotton and latex.

The models walked beneath three enormous golden chandeliers that appeared to float above the black runway. In the background, the Eiffel Tower shimmered, lending the scene an even greater sense of grandeur. Perfect weather, an almost full moon and the unmistakable atmosphere of Paris transformed the show into a celebration of quintessential French chic.

In Vaccarello’s hands, gold shifted through a spectrum of shades, taking on brownish, reddish and almost foil-like reflections. The fabrics were shaped into dramatic pleats, folds and ruffles, allowing even the monochromatic palette to feel rich, varied and multidimensional.

Follow NEWS.am STYLE on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram