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Wine Story. World expert Jancis Robinson: Wine can become a more luxurious product

20:18, July 17

Jancis Robinson, a globally renowned wine critic and journalist, holds the prestigious title of Master of Wine, one of the most esteemed awards in the wine industry. She is the author of numerous books on wine, including "The Oxford Companion to Wine," and runs her own website, JancisRobinson.com, which serves as a vital resource for wine enthusiasts and professionals alike. In an exclusive interview with STYLE. NEWS.am, Jancis Robinson shares her thoughts on the future of winemaking, the key aspects of wine evaluation, and the potential for the development of wine culture in different regions around the world.

How do you see the future of the wine industry? What changes or innovations do you expect in the coming years that may affect consumers and wine producers?

Prices are going up all the time and there is more and more competition for wine: craft beer, craft spirits, cocktails, cannabis, health concerns and abstinence. So I don’t expect to see the vigorous growth in wine consumption that I have been lucky enough to see in growing markets such as the UK, US and Germany during my career to date. Organic, biodynamic and regenerative viticulture seem to be becoming more common, albeit from a low base. This will be good for the planet but is unlikely to result in lower prices. So I fear wine may become more of a luxury product rather than a democratic regular pleasure. The wine market is also increasingly competitive and it can be difficult for new producers to have their voices heard, though those who know how to use social media may benefit. 

How do you approach the evaluation and description of wines? What points do you pay special attention to when evaluating wine?

I’m looking for wines with real interest, now that virtually all wines are technically correct (which certainly wasn’t the case when I started writing about wine in the mid 1970s!). And of course the wine has be well balanced with the elements of sweetness, acidity, tannin and alcohol in harmony and it should ideally last a long time after it has been swallowed or spat out at a professional tasting. I favour wines that express where they come from rather than carbon copies of French classics. Finding words to describe flavours is always difficult  - I used all mine up long ago!

What, in your opinion, is a key aspect of a successful wine culture? What factors, besides the quality of the wine itself, can affect its success in the market and in the eyes of consumers?

I suppose it helps if high-profile opinion-formers obviously love and respect wine. And it also helps if there is informed communication about wine, whether written or spoken. But it’s no good being elitist about it. That way, only a tiny minority of people will become interested in wine. Be inclusive! Open wine bars that give people a taste of lots of different wines.

How do you assess the potential for the development of wine culture and market in countries where winemaking is just beginning to develop or recover, for example, in Eastern Europe or the Middle East?

No war, please! (Although it has to be said that Ukrainian wine has been welcomed recently in the UK more than I think it would have been if Russia had not invaded.)

Of course Islam is a brake on the development of a wine culture in some countries, even those with a centuries-old tradition of winemaking. But the Syrian wines of Domaine Bargylus show what the possibilities are. And there was a big generic  Eastern European wine tasting in London recently that was extremely well attended by very enthusiastic wine professionals. The potential is definitely there.

Liana Aghajanyan


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