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Gourmet classics: How chef Geoffrey Zakarian turns Niçoise salad into a masterpiece

23:01, November 20

Geoffrey Zakarian, longtime culinary personality on Food Network, Iron Chef, and successful restaurateur, has long been a respected figure in the world of gastronomy. He’s shared secrets on everything from perfectly roasted chicken to selecting a live lobster. Now, Zakarian has turned his attention to another challenge: reimagining hospital food. Collaborating with Tampa General Hospital, he’s developed a menu of fresh, seasonal, locally sourced dishes—from grilled snapper to bistro-style steaks.

Recently, Zakarian held a masterclass on Niçoise salad at the Bahamas Culinary & Arts Festival, and The Takeout spoke with him about the nuances of this French classic. With the right approach, even canned tuna can be elevated into a sophisticated dish.

Stick to the Classic Recipe

Niçoise salad has undergone many transformations. Early versions barely resembled today’s dish, featuring stale bread, tomatoes, and anchovies. Chef Auguste Escoffier popularized a more modern take with potatoes and green beans.

Zakarian’s recipe includes green beans, canned tuna, salad greens, cherry tomatoes, onions, cucumbers, peppers, olives, eggs, and fresh herbs. Six ingredients, however, are essential to a “classic” Niçoise: olives, green beans, anchovies, eggs, canned or poached tuna, and boiled potatoes.

Don’t Skimp on Vinegar

Traditionally dressed with olive oil and tuna oil, today’s favorite is a vinaigrette. Zakarian recommends a dressing “with a noticeable tang.” Just combine oil, vinegar, and an emulsifier, and whisk in a bowl or shake in a jar.

Simple Vinaigrette with Fish

Zakarian favors a vinaigrette made with anchovies, red wine vinegar, and extra-virgin olive oil. It’s versatile: use as a dip, drizzle over vegetables, or marinate chicken. No anchovies? Stick to a classic French vinaigrette with egg yolk, Dijon mustard, vinegar, lemon, and oil.

Choosing the Right Tuna

Even canned tuna can shine. Zakarian suggests tuna in jars or cans, with favorites including Spanish brand Ortiz, Wild Planet, Safe Catch, and TonNino.

Smart Ingredient Swaps

For tuna alternatives, poached salmon or chicken works well. Other ingredients, like olives, allow flexibility: swap traditional Niçoise olives for Kalamata or Ligurian varieties.

Potatoes and Eggs: Key Textures

Use Yukon Gold or La Ratte potatoes, and ensure eggs are “slightly soft inside.” Boil eggs for six minutes in boiling water, then chill in an ice bath.

Crunchy Accents and Presentation

Once the classic is mastered, add crisp croutons—creamy, garlicky ones work best. Keep presentation simple: arrange ingredients beautifully but separately. Potatoes, eggs, green beans, and olives sit atop salad greens, with dressing served on top or on the side. For multiple servings, lay out ingredients individually so guests can assemble their own salad.

Zakarian reminds us that the beauty of Niçoise lies in simplicity and the harmony of colors, flavors, and textures. Even canned tuna, in his hands, becomes a culinary work of art.


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