A decade after Italy’s Prada listed in Hong Kong, Chinese high-fashion brand Icicle is now considering a public offering in Paris. This move reflects China’s transformation from a hub of cheap knockoffs into a center of innovation — from BYD electric vehicles and AI startups like DeepSeek to the globally popular Labubu toys, according to the Financial Times.
Homegrown luxury is fueled by government initiatives promoting guochao — the “national trend” — and growing cultural confidence. China chic now spans all markers of status consumption: fashion, jewelry, luxury cars, and fine wines. Hongqi vehicles, once reserved for communist leaders, now ferry the country’s billionaires.
This evolution poses a challenge for European luxury houses. First, Chinese products are competitively priced. In a sluggish economy with tough prospects for young professionals, spending around $500 on a Songmont handbag is a smarter choice than paying ten times that for a European label.
Business models are leaner, too — there’s no need for flagship stores on Milan or Paris’s priciest streets, and mall space is cheaper. Chinese brands are also willing to sacrifice margin: Bernstein estimates retail markups of four to five times the cost of goods sold, roughly half the multiple of European rivals.
Second, Chinese companies emphasize local heritage, incorporating traditional motifs into jewelry and historical design into furniture. This resonates with growing cultural and historical interest — for example, museum attendance over the May holidays rose 17% last year.
Third, domestic success gives Chinese brands a competitive edge abroad. While their international presence is still modest, some have begun to expand: Bosideng operates a London flagship and sells in France, while BYD demonstrates the potential of a Chinese challenger reaching global scale.
Foreign luxury groups have also invested early in Chinese brands. Exor, the Agnelli family holding, acquired Hermes’ stake in Shang Xia in 2020. LVMH owns winery Ao Yun, and Kering, Gucci’s parent, bought jewelry brand Qeelin in 2012.
Chinese companies remain relatively small, but growth is rapid. Laopu Gold, a fast-rising jewelry house, now has a market capitalization of nearly $18 billion — up from under $1 billion in 2024. Including potential acquisition premiums, this easily surpasses the inflation-adjusted price LVMH paid for Tiffany six years ago. European competitors can no longer afford to ignore the rising influence of Chinese luxury.
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