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Wine Story: How music can affect taste of wine

22:21, June 12

According to a number of studies, pairing music with wine can change and even improve our perception of what's in the glass. So if you find Pinot Grigio too bland or Zinfandel too sweet, perhaps switching up your playlist will help.

In Puglia, winemaker Pasquale Petrera uses what he calls music therapy in his cellar. Its goal is to “emphasize the elegance, freshness and authenticity of Primitivo” by optimizing the oxygenation process. This happens naturally through the wood, but he believes the extra sound waves bouncing off the barrel help move the wine particles in a non-invasive and ultimately beneficial way. It includes birdsong and sounds of flowing water, rustling leaves, wind, rain, thunder, and rolling waves. Does this really make the wine better? Interestingly, his Fatalone winery produces the best Primitivo wine in the country.

In the north, on the shores of Lake Garda, the Olivini family has been playing classical music in the cellar since its renovation in 2018. “When sound waves move through air, water or earth, the vibrations affect the behavior of these molecules. We believe that stimulating the yeast particles has a positive effect,” says winemaker Jüri Botti.

And in Tuscany, Carlo Cignozzi went even further. At his Paradiso di Frassina estate in Montalcino, more than 35 speakers are installed to spread the same musical vibrations to the vines themselves. Throughout the growing season, he plays only Mozart due to the composer's preference for lower frequencies. Not only do lower frequencies travel further, but some believe they have natural healing abilities. “Music not only creates a beneficial resonance for the plant, but also repels pathogens and pests. Mozart bothers them and they leave.”

In one supermarket, playing French music led to increased sales of French wine. Susan R. Lin, a Master of Wine who wrote a thesis on how classical music influences the perception of non-vintage Brut Champagne, believes that music can have a positive effect on the drinker.

“Various combinations of musical elements (e.g., pitch, tempo, articulation, timbre) have been shown to influence sensory perception,” she says. “So if you're looking to enhance the perception of certain sensory characteristics of a wine, say brightness and freshness, you might find music with a faster tempo, higher pitch, dynamic articulation and vibrant timbre.”

“Try different music genre combinations with wine, even if they are styles you don't usually listen to or wines you don't drink! You might be surprised,” she says. “The most important thing is to allow yourself to feel what your senses intuitively perceive; this is where the magic begins.”


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